If you’re a fan of Chef Vivian Howard, you probably know of her iconic restaurant, the Chef and the Farmer, located in the sleepy little town of Kinston! What’s changed, post-pandemic, is that the Chef and Farmer is now focused on a once a month (weekend) service, 7 courses over 2 hours for $300. Now for a lot of people (including myself), that’s on the edge of what my foodie budget can cover so I love finding more affordable ways to try out her food and menu.
A new option and alternative is the Counter at the Chef and the Farmer! Located behind the main restaurant with a side entrance in the building, the Counter is a modern, Southern cafe that specializes in casual lunch and dinner offerings. Now open 7 days a week, it’s an awesome option for a meal bursting with presentation and flavor!
Inside the Counter you’ll find a comfortable and colorful space full of weathered whimsy. Order at the front counter, you’ll find a short menu of snacks, sides and mains in the $5 to $21 range so it’s all quite affordable. Grab a number and if you’d like an adult beverage, head on behind the order area to a bar tucked away in back.
It’ll likely take 10 or 15 minutes for your food to come out, I’m pretty sure the Counter has a shared kitchen with the Chef and Farmer and they’ll need to run it over. Enjoy the ambiance of the space while you’re waiting, there’s a lot of color, plants, and geometric shapes. It’s a mix of country and modern that’s bright and fun. There’s also a centerpiece table in the middle of the dining room offering self-service water and a showcase of layer cakes!
I highly recommend the hush puppies with apple and jalapeno preserves. The hush puppies themselves are large and bumpy with good texture but add in some of the preserves and it’s next level good! Once you realize you need to eat this starter with a fork, you’ll have cracked the code on this deliciousness.
For mains I’ve done the porchetta sandwich which was fantastic (outside of the bun being scorched a bit). They do a great job creating a mini slice of porchetta complete with crispy cracklings on the outside and layer it with some dark greens and relish. Also a happy thumbs up for the blueberry enchiladas which features tender chicken and a tomatilla sauce on top. A very tasty and a hearty dish with a hint of fruit.
For the sides, the Counter spins up some classic Southern offerings with a twist. Enjoyed my broccoli and tobacco onions along with the classic mac and cheese. The sides are sizable and can be shared between two. But I hate to say it, I’ve never made it to dessert because the portion sizes here are quite generous and don’t leave much room for me at the end of the meal.
Service at the Counter is quite good. The staff checks in on you and they move quickly if something is needed. You can certainly tell they’ve been trained well even though it’s a quick casual setup. And I’ve enjoyed both my meals here, a nice change of pace from the other offerings in the area, more gourmet but still comfortable! So call me a fan of the Counter at the Chef and Farmer. One day I’ll make it back to the Chef and Farmer but until then, you’ll find me here enjoying those tobacco onions and a lot more of the menu!
2024 NC Chinese Lantern Festival in Cary – A Dazzling Display of Asian Culture for the Triangle